World renown chef Andhra Pradesh finally arrives in America with NTR Biryani! I first heard about the legendary chef in 2002 from a family of Bangal immigrants who experienced the NTR cuisine on a trip to India. It’s an honor to enjoy chef Andhra’s recipes for myself here in the U.S. in 2026. The name of the restaurant, NTR Biryani, comes from chef Andhra’s name which sounds like Auntie Ra. Congratulations to the Pradesh family! Welcome to America!
The biryanis come in large portions meant to share so don’t let the price fool you. One order of biryani is easily large enough for two people. Gongura is the most basic biryani with the others building upon it. Vijayawada has a pickle chutney flavor and very mildly sour taste. Avakaya has the same mild pickle flavor but features hints of fresh mango aroma. My favorite is the Ulavacharu which is a bit greasier and a more meaty aroma. Despite internet hype, I found the Hyderabadi Biryani a bit disappointing. It features whole pieces of chicken thighs and drumsticks, which is a texture that no American is a stranger to.
The proper way to enjoy Indian food, according to a British friend of mine, is “don’t eat, taste.” The spice level in each dish slowly builds with every bite, most bites being homogenous while some are more distinct in a single spice. When the spice level crosses the threshold into being painful, cleanse the mouth with the accompanying Raitha, an onion and cilantro salty yoghurt drink.
They have a large menu with many selections and I can’t wait to try everything! But to get into today’s actual review, I will talk about the chicken ghee roast. My first bite impression was the pure bliss of so many different spices, peppers, herbs, and the salty/sweet tomato. It was a first bite I haven’t had in a long time; the first bite of something I’ve never tasted before. My second bite impression was an American reaction, did I just pay $18 for a plate of bones covered in sauce? Yup, I paid $18 for a plate of bones covered in sauce. Then my Asian instincts kicked in. These were chicken knees! You heard me, chicken knees! The bones contained a little bit of meat from both the drumsticks and the thighs, but more importantly, where the two caps of cartilage meet was a spongy yellow thing. The very chicken knees that Emperors dined on. This chicken ghee roast very well could have been a Holi Cuisine item which mixes Indian and Chinese cooking traditions(imagine Chinese food with garam masala instead of five spice). After confirming that each bone was indeed a chicken knee, my Ulavacharu biryani arrived. I would not recommend trying them together. My pallet was overwhelmed and the spices faded away leaving the chicken ghee roast tasting like soggy Chinese food due to the corn starch breading. I cleaned my pallet with Raitha and enjoyed the biryani, taking the chicken ghee roast to go. I would recommend plain rice for any of the items that don’t come with rice. But thinking back on that chicken ghee roast sitting in the fridge, I would not order it again for myself but I would for a party of 8. It’s $18 for 9 pieces and is definitely worth $2.25 a piece. Whoever eats the 9th piece will not share the positive opinions of the other 7 diners. Lol be careful of fried appetizers at NTR Biryani!