Question 1

Water wells: where's mine, and what's the law?

Accepted Answer

Your water well must be positioned at least 75 feet away from any septic field and a minimum of 50 feet from any septic tank. The wellhead should extend 8 to 12 inches above ground level. Most wells are constructed with 4 to 6-inch diameter steel casing, though some states and counties have approved PVC materials. You may have a well pit, which means your well could be located in a concrete or cement block vault that also houses your tank and controls. It is illegal to construct new well pits. New vault applications are only permitted for tanks and controls when necessary.

Question 2

Why doesn't my pump shut off?

Accepted Answer

For JET-PUMP systems, there are six primary causes for this issue: worn impellers, a vacuum or pressure leak, a plugged sand point, a plugged jet or venturi, a faulty pressure switch, or a dropped water table. For SUBMERSIBLE PUMP systems, the typical causes include a worn pump, a dropped water table, a leak in the system, a plugged intake, or a faulty pressure switch.

Question 3

How deep is my well?

Accepted Answer

We maintain an extensive database of well depths and water tables through our connections with numerous state and geological agencies. We can typically provide an accurate estimate of your well depth, if not the exact measurement. Additional information regarding your well is also available.

Question 4

How old is my well and water system?

Accepted Answer

With minimal information from you, we can generally determine the type of equipment you have, its make and model, and the approximate date of manufacture. Various hidden and scripted date codes exist on equipment. Contact us, and we will guide you on where to locate these codes.

Question 5

What is a well cap?

Accepted Answer

A well cap is an approved manufactured cover made of cast steel, aluminum, or PVC. It attaches to the well casing using bolts along with a rubber compression O-ring and gasket, both designed to create a watertight and vermin-proof seal. Well caps include vents made with brass or stainless mesh. A female threaded port allows for the connection and insertion of electrical cable. All well caps must meet state approval standards.

Question 6

Am I allowed to work on my own well?

Accepted Answer

Possibly, though homeowners often create more problems than they resolve. You are permitted to work on your own well. However, simply pouring one or two gallons of household bleach down your well will not properly clean and disinfect your well or water supply. Keep in mind that chlorine is poisonous-the label clearly states this. The necessary concentrations and proper placement are critical factors you should understand. Bleach is highly corrosive, and when left in high concentrations on parts and materials inside your well, it can destroy mechanical components or sealing devices. A $1.79 gallon of bleach could ruin your pump. For your safety, contact us for advice. We are happy to assist.

Question 7

Can I disinfect or chlorinate my own well?

Accepted Answer

Your water well must be positioned at least 75 feet away from any septic field and a minimum of 50 feet from any septic tank. The wellhead should extend 8 to 12 inches above ground level. Most wells are constructed with 4 to 6-inch diameter steel casing, though some states and counties have approved PVC materials. You may have a well pit, which means your well could be located in a concrete or cement block vault that also houses your tank and controls. It is illegal to construct new well pits. New vault applications are only permitted for tanks and controls when necessary.

Question 8

I have a new baby. What about the water?

Accepted Answer

Contaminated water can appear crystal clear, have no odor, and taste completely normal. Infants and seniors have sensitive systems. Waterborne bacteria can cause serious organ and neurological damage and, if left undetected, can be fatal. We recommend that a state-licensed and certified contractor inspect your water well and pumping system and that a water sample be collected and retested after 30 days. For your safety, we advise an annual water sample. Keep in mind that contaminated water can look, smell, and taste perfectly fine. For additional information, refer to our well inspections for realtors and homeowners.

Question 9

Can I take my own water sample?

Accepted Answer

Yes, sample bottles can be obtained from your local Department of Public Health or from our facility. Be sure to obtain sampling instructions and coordinate your sample submission with laboratory hours and incubation schedules. The optimal time to collect and submit a sample is typically on Monday or Tuesday. Samples that sit over weekends are not recommended. If you prefer the confidential results of an in-home water sample instead of a public laboratory record, sample kits are available at our office or can be mailed directly to you for $19.95 plus $3.20 for shipping and handling.

Question 10

I don't have a storage tank in my house... so where is it?

Accepted Answer

All water systems require a pressure tank, and the size is an important factor. Several types of storage tanks are in use. The most effective tank is the captive air or bladder-type tank. Most bladder-type tanks require no maintenance and are available in various sizes to match your water pump. Some tanks are buried underground when no other option exists. Unfortunately, most buried tanks are damaged by natural soil acids and corrode within several years of installation. If the iron content, mineral content, and pH of your water are not corrosive, a buried tank may work for your situation. The labor required to replace a buried tank involves a backhoe or similar excavating equipment, which can be quite expensive. Servicing or replacing an indoor tank simply requires a service call.

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